Spiritveghead Tek (Part 2)
Lab Supplies
Safety glasses, gloves, and a mask!!!) These tools are so important! In this Tek you will be working with lye which is very caustic and can blind you or severely burn you. When Lye mixes with water, it creates a chemical reaction that produces a lot of heat and fumes. You don’t want to breath the fumes or get the lye water on your skin or in your eyes. It can burn you and blind you! This step is very important! Please! DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS TEK WITHOUT SAFTEY GEAR!
A coffee grinder, magic bullet, or my personal favorite… a Nutribullet) This is for grinding your bark into a powder. Powdered bark breaks down faster and releases the spice you’re after. You can buy pre-powdered bark (At extra cost) and skip this tool if you wish, but I Prefer to buy bark chips or shredded bark (which are cheaper) and grind it myself. I’ll explain why in further detail later. To save some money, I recommend looking for a grinder at your local secondhand stores before buying new. However, my personal favorite has become the Nutribullet! It’s very powerful and powders the bark well and fast!
A scale that measures in Grams and Milligrams) The scale that measures in grams, is for weighing out your ingredients. Food scales work great! They can measure grams, fluid ounces, pounds, Kilograms and more. They are very affordable and available at almost all grocery stores. The scale that measures in milligrams, is for weighing out your final product and your doses. It’s not 100% necessary if you know how to calculate milligrams on a regular gram scale however, I highly recommend getting one and saving yourself the headache. I got a milligram scale on amazon for about $20 US dollars. It makes weighing doses a lot more precise! Worth the money!
A plastic bowl and cup for weighing your dry ingredients) Red solo cups are great for weighing your dry ingredients however, I prefer a large plastic bowl or Tupperware for weighing out my bark. If you bought bark chips or shredded bark, a bigger bowl to hold your bark without it overflowing will make it easier to weigh out.
A Pyrex measuring cup that can hold up to 4 cups or (1 liter) This measuring cup is one of my favorite supplies of all. Its available on amazon and most grocery stores for about $15 US dollars. It allows you to properly measure out your water, and it doubles as the perfect cup to mix your Lye water in because it is tempered glass. It also triples as your freeze precipitation dish (more on that later). whatever glass you use to mix your Lye and water together, MUST BE TEMPERED GLASS OR LAB GRADE BOROSILICATE! NO EXCEPTIONS! Like I said earlier, mixing lye and water creates a chemical reaction the produces a lot of heat. Tempered glass is made to withstand high heat and freezing colds. Another option is a large Patron tequila bottle. The bottles are Tempered glass. I learned that from Willy Myco on Youtube. They are great bottles for mixing your lye water. *NOTE: This measuring cup won’t be needed if you plan on using the Erlenmeyer flask suggested in the lab glass section in part #2. The flask will double as your measuring cup and your half gallon mason jar.
A half-gallon mason jar) This is the jar we will be using as our extraction vessel. I like using wide mouth mason jars (if I’m between flasks), because they are cheap and available everywhere, including second hand stores. I like using the half gallon size because it gives me plenty of room to work. mason jars are also tempered glass. Even though we won’t be using any heat in this Tek, I still prefer them just out of personal preference and for their strength. A mason jar or tempered glass extraction vessel isn’t 100% necessary for this Tek. You can use any glass jar or bottle if its large enough to hold all of your base and naphtha, while still having room to mix, without the jar being completely full. I’ve seen liquor bottles used, giant pickle jars used and many other food jars that work fine if you don’t plan on heating them up. If it’s not tempered glass, you can’t freeze it or heat it. we won’t be using heat in this Tek so just get yourself a nice big pickle jar if you can’t get a mason jar. Just remember that taller is better than wider. A wide jar will make the Naphtha layer too thin to pull accurately. *NOTE: If you have the Erlenmeyer flask with a glass stopper as mentioned in the lab glass section in part #2, then use them instead. I highly recommend them if you can afford it.
A stainless-steel spoon and a wooden spoon) What’s the point of needing 2 spoons? The stainless-steel spoon is for mixing the Lye into the water. A lot of different metals react with Lye, and you don’t want toxic metal erosion in your lye water that will work its way into your final product. When the lye is reacting in the water, you will use a stainless-steel spoon to mix the lye water together. Stainless steel can handle the reaction of the lye water and won’t release anything harmful. The wooden spoon is used for mixing the bark and Lye water together in your extraction vessel (mason jar) without the risk of accidently hitting the side of your jar too hard with a metal spoon and cracking it. Your wooden spoon should be 12 inches or longer so it can reach the bottom of the jar, and it should have no chemical coatings or dyes on it. Bamboo spoons work well too. If you can’t find a good wooden spoon (Chem. free) a dried stick with the bark peeled off from an oak tree (or any hardwood tree) will work perfectly. Some people use chopsticks, but I do not recommend them. They are very difficult to use with a large jar because they don’t reach the bottom and they don’t mix very well. They also could fall into your jar and be hard to retrieve without pouring everything out of your extraction vessel. *NOTE: If you plan on using a magnetic stirrer, like the one mentioned in the lab glass section in part #2, you won’t need the two spoons mentioned above.
A digital cooking thermometer) This will help you read the temperature of your Lye water and let you know when it has cooled enough to pour it into your bark powder. You can find cooking thermometers very cheap online and at grocery stores for around $10 US dollars. I recommend the digital ones that have stainless steel tips only! They read the temperature quickly and accurately. This isn’t 100% necessary but if you want white spice, you need to make sure you know the exact temp of your Lye before adding it to the bark. Every single degree matters.
A glass pipette) This tool is necessary. It’s used for siphoning off the naphtha or (solvent) which contains your spice. You may have heard you can use a glass turkey baster; however, I do not recommend them. They have been used successfully but with all the people I have helped through this Tek, they tend to cause more problems than anything. Glass pipettes and turkey basters cost the same amount of money on amazon and the differences between them are night and day. Pipettes are a lot more accurate and will allow you to siphon off your naphtha accurately without pulling your base layer (containing lye) with it. Please! Do yourself a favor and buy yourself a nice glass Pipette and don’t forget the pipette pump with it. The pipettes with the rubber bulbs are hit and miss. I’ve had some that work great and others that don’t work at all. Squeeze bulbs also require a very steady release, so the pipette doesn’t suck to hard, bringing base up with your Naphtha. Buy yourself a nice lab grade pipette with a thumb-controlled pump. If extracting is becoming your hobby, just buy the proper tool and save yourself the headache. If you Absolutely cannot get a pipette, another good option is a Luer lock reusable glass syringe. They are available online for about $20 U.S dollars. They are accurate and allow you to siphon your naphtha layer quicker if you get the 50ml size. Just make sure to also buy the stainless steel Luer lock needle tips with it. *NOTE: You will not need a glass pipette if you plan on buying the separation funnel mentioned in the lab glass section in part #2. However, I personally still like to have one on hand for small separations.
A Pyrex casserole dish) This is what you will use to collect the spice from your naphtha. This is the freeze precipitation dish I mentioned above. The dish needs to be Pyrex or tempered glass if you plan on freezing the spice or (freeze precipitating the spice) from your Naphtha. I prefer to use a larger dish with a larger surface area like this one. It allows the spice to crash out or (precipitate out) of the naphtha quicker. I’ve used a variety of casserole dishes. Large, small, shallow, and deep. No matter what size you use, it won’t effect your results, it will only effect how well you will be able to retrieve your dried crystals in the end. Ultimately you need to use a dish that will allow your hand to fit inside to scrape the crystals out with a razor blade. You want to be able to reach all the corners of your dish comfortably. If your dish comes with a lid, you can use that instead of aluminum foil when it comes time to precipitate, just don’t let your Naphtha touch the plastic lid! Plastic should never touch your solvent unless it is HDPE or PTFE rated.
A small glass container with a sealing lid to store your spice) There are many styles of jars and bottles out there that will be suitable to keep your spice in. When it comes to picking the jar or bottle, you need to make sure it has an airtight lid and preferably one that screws closed. Do not use corks. Corks are breathable and will allow your spice to oxidize. I also try to avoid jars or bottles that have a snap or pop top. I’ve had bottles that accidently popped open and allowed the spice to spill out in a backpack. That’s not something you want to discover after you have finally made it out to your camping spot in the middle of nowhere. Another thing I look for in a storage container is tinted glass. Tinted glass will protect your spice from light which is very important! light, moisture, and air will cause the spice to oxidize and hurt the potency. These little bottles are the ones I personally use, and they haven’t let me down. I also use these little funnels. It helps you to accurately get your spice into the bottle without spilling. 100% recommend!
A few miscellaneous supplies you will need are…) A rubber band or the ring for your mason jar (if using one), aluminum foil, a quart sized sandwich bag or plastic wrap and of course your razor for scraping your dish.
Ingredients
For this Tek you will use,
100 grams of powdered Mimosa Hostilis root bark or (MHRB) This Tek will not work with ACRB. As I mentioned above, you can buy pre-powdered bark however, it usually cost a few dollars more. Lately there has been an issue with buying pre-powdered bark. The problem is that you can get bark that is too fine. You don’t want to use bark that is baby powder fine because it can cause instant emulsions or suspend itself in your Naphtha layer which will cause separation issues and make it almost impossible to siphon off your Naphtha. This is becoming a common issue that I think is due to bark vendors growing in popularity so their grinders may have been updated to bigger, more powerful grinders to keep up with the demand. To clarify, this is just my opinion and I have no facts to back it up. It’s just a hunch. I personally prefer bark chips or shredded bark and then I grind them myself. This ensures that my bark isn’t too fine. You still want to see some small plant fibers in your powdered bark. You want more of a course powder. The lye is strong enough to break these small fibers down without you dealing with separation issues. I put on my favorite music and just have a grinding session that I put lots of love and positive vibes into. I just feel like the more you put in the process the more you will get out of it. Just my personal preference though. I also like to place my bark in the freezer 24hr prior to extraction. This makes the bark easier to grind up and assists in breaking the bark down for extraction.
100 grams of Sodium Hydroxide or (Lye) Sodium Hydroxide is commonly used to bring your water to a ph. level of 14 which will be Alkaline enough to allow the bark to break down and release the spice within it. Its available in most hardware stores in the U.S and sold as drain cleaner. Make sure That you are using 100% pure Lye and always check the SDS sheet (safety data sheet) online to ensure there are no other added ingredients that weren’t listed on the bottle. You want the Lye in a dry bead form, and you don’t want anything that contains other chemicals or dyes. Some food grade Lye’s will say 99.99% pure and they are perfectly fine to use as well.
750ml of water) I prefer to use distilled water because the ph. is neutral but it’s not 100% necessary. You can use tap water or bottle spring water. It’s up to you. I do however recommend that if you’re going to use tap water, allow your water to sit in an open bottle, jar or cup for 24hrs to allow all the chlorine to evaporate from the water before use. This step with tap water is a must.
150ml of Naphtha That has passed an Evap test) There are a wide variety of solvents out there that will work however, depending on what country you’re in, it may not be available to you or, it’s called by a different name. You can usually find Naphtha at most hardware stores in the U.S in the paint section. Other solvents that are commonly used are, Rosenthal’s lighter fluid and Zippo Premium lighter fluid because they are also, Naphtha (light petroleum distillate) . If you can’t find Naphtha, please look in the FAQ section at the bottom for alternative solvents.
Lab glass. Encouraged, but not mandatory.
I never included a “Lab glass” section in the simple guide because most people simply don’t have it. However, thanks to the internet, the number of people that have access borosilicate lab glass is growing and I encourage the use of it for safer, cleaner extractions. It’s not 100% mandatory though. I always encourage you to use what’s available to you. You don’t need fancy beakers or separation funnels to experience natures gift of spice. Don’t let anyone discourage you from being resourceful and using what you have. Even someone with a fancy set up is still extracting in their kitchen, not a lab. If you’re passionate about the chemistry and have a fancy $500-dollar magnetic stirrer and a few hundred dollars’ worth of lab glass, good for you! However, most first timers will not have these fancy set ups, and I don’t believe their efforts should be discredited or mocked because of it. Nature respects and appreciates resourcefulness. Use what you have and overtime you can slowly improve your methods and work your way up to fancy tools. With that being said, I do encourage you to use the best gear available to you. Don’t cut corners! If you’re passionate about the molecule and the chemistry behind it, you should put in your best effort to use the best tools you can get and be as safe and as clean as possible. I don’t know a single person that does something they love, half assed. If you have the money and the resources, below is a list of lab glass that I personally would use in place of the above supplies, if you decide you want to put the extra time and money, into your supplies list.
Borosilicate, glass beaker set) You can get them for about 10 US dollars. I personally bought the 3 pack that came in (50ml, 100ml and 250ml). They have come in handy for quick measurements, Evap tests and re-x steps. They have also come in handy for a variety of other projects and make everything easier. I 100% recommend getting them if you plan on extracting in the years to come.
Borosilicate, 1000ml Erlenmeyer flask with a 24/29 top joint to plug with a glass stopper) If you decide to buy this piece of lab glass you will use it in place of the mason jar and plastic wrap lid. you want 1000ml in size and a glass stopper that will fit in the top. The top of your Erlenmeyer flask is a 24/29 joint that looks like the female port on a bong, that the male bowl slides into. I highly recommend using lab grade glass for a cleaner product. It will also help to avoid unnecessary contamination caused by accidentally allowing your Naphtha to touch your plastic lid on the mason jar. A flask with a glass stopper is a very professional way to ensure a clean product.
Borosilicate, 1000ml separation funnel with stand, PTFE stopcock and 24/29 top joint) The separation funnel will allow you to accurately separate your base layer from your solvent. This is one of my favorite pieces of glass as it really helps to speed things up and decrease’s your chance of accidently pulling base into your precipitating dish. This will take the place of siphoning with a pipette if you choose to get one. I’m sure that if you decided to purchase one, it will quickly become your favorite tool as well.
magnetic stirrer with PTFE stir bars) A magnetic stirrer can help you in many ways. First, it will help your mixing stages in being more through. Secondly, since it provides a consistent mix, you will be less likely to get emulsions due to unnecessary sloshing and varied mixing power you get with hand mixes. Another great thing I love about using a magnetic stirrer, is you can hook it up to a programable timer that will allow your stirrer to automatically mix every 3 hours down to the minute. you won’t have to wake up in the middle of the night or worry about how your jar will be mixed if you’re at work. I program a timer to mix for 1 minute, every 3 hours, allowing you to achieve a total of 8 precise mixes in a 24hr period. A magnetic stirrer will take the human error out of your mixing phases and make the extraction more of a hands-off approach. well worth the money!
This is the end of Part 2.
If I buy everything at once will it raise any suspicion or should I buy everything spaced out (this is my my first attempt at extracting dmt)
I usually buy most products and various stores with cash. Don’t get everything all from one place to avoid Karen’s and suspicious eyes. If there’s only one store you have found everything you need then try to space out your buys and try ordering things online. Like I said when I’m at the store I always pay cash.
Thank you this has been so much help
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No problem I’m happy to help🍄
Have you thought about using a glass stir rod instead of spoons? Then it’s both inert and won’t crack the container. Also, if you’re buying glass from a brick & mortar lab supply store, borosilicate petri dishes might be good for precipitation. The biggest ones I could find at my local shop are 100mm diameter x 20mm tall so I’m planning on buying two.
Here’s my shopping list:
2x flint glass stir rod
1000mL borosilicate Erlenmeyer flask
25mL serological pipette
Pipette pump
2x rubber stopper (none of the soup should come in contact with the stopper)
Pyrex beaker set 50mL, 150mL, 250mL
2x 100mm OD x 20mm borosilicate petri dish with lid
120mm borosilicate funnel
Update
The stir rod works great for mixing the water, lye, and bark. As /u/spiritveghead mentions though, probably not a good idea to use it for the naphtha. I’m skeptical that taking the lid off for 1 minute every few hours would notably evaporate the solvent (the DMT wouldn’t evaporate anyways), but you’re increasing your chances of forming an emulsion by stirring.
Also I used a rubber stopper because it was far cheaper than getting a glass stopper along with a compatible Erlenmeyer flask. It didn’t react with the base at all even while vigorously shaking to hydrate the bark, but I’m now being very careful to not let the naphtha touch the stopper while swirling to combine or it will dissolve the rubber. It works well if there’s enough of a gap between the top of the liquids and the stopper, a Pyrex 1000mL Erlenmeyer flask is perfect.
The issue with using a stir rod is that everytime you open the lid, your solvent starts to evaporate. Also stir rods are very thin and chances are you will cause emulsions before you get the layers to mix thoroughly. I discuss this more indepth in part 4 of the FAQ.
I really don’t recommend using a stir rod. It doesn’t work. If you’re getting all this glass then just spend an extra 40 bucks and get a magnetic stirrer. It makes everything very easy and streamline👍
I’m planning on using the stir rod just for mixing the water, lye, and bark, not for the naphtha. And unfortunately the cheapest mixer at the lab supply store was $90 and the stir bar is sold separately. I’ll probably buy a cheaper mixer online at some point
No problem I included a link to a magnetic stirrer that I use in part 2 of the supplies list. It’s 40 bucks and hasn’t let me down.
I included a link to a magnetic stirrer that I use in part 2
does that stirrer require some magnet to be put inside the flask? does it (inside magnet) need to be of some specific kind, not to get reaction with base?
I lke your lab approach, gonna make my harvest lab like this. clean and pro. Just to be safe and have more fun with dexters laboratory :D
What is the timer thing you talked about before I work a lot.
Can you link which programmable timer you used for the magnetic stirrer?
Might you have a link to the outlet timer you use? The Erlenmeyer flask replaces the mason jar, is it hard to clean out when you are all done?
After looking into it some more, I just wanted to note that unless it’s specifically stated otherwise, mason jars from brands like Ball and Kerr are made of standard annealed glass, not Tempered. Tempered glass is 4-5 times stronger than annealed.
Taken from the Ball FAQ page: “The glass used for Ball and Kerr canning jars is not tempered for oven use and is not meant to be used as bakeware. The jars are safe to use for home canning recipes, cold or room temperature food storage, cold beverages, and crafting.”
Hey, im trying to find a reliable source for the Mimosa hossiliis root bark. Would you maybe have any that could be shared or guide me in a direction on one?
Whats up brotha, just seeing what setting(rpm) you landed on your magnetic stirrer. I have the same model!
Ive read posts about that green non borosilicate glass is not good. Know anything about that?
Does the separation funnel/stand sit on the magnetic stirrer? It won’t fall off?
Why does this not work with ACRB? Just out of curiosity.
What’s the issue with acacia confusa? What goes wrong
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